Preguntas frecuentes

A guitar usually requires a refret when the frets show deep grooves, uneven wear, persistent fret buzz, or tuning problems that cannot be fixed with a setup or leveling. Before recommending a full refret, it is advisable to perform a diagnosis of the frets and the neck.

Leveling corrects minor height differences and moderate wear, preserving the existing frets. Refretting involves removing the old frets and installing new ones. The choice depends on the available wear, remaining height, and overall condition of the fretboard.

Yes, but it requires more work and care because the finish can be affected during the removal and installation of the frets. In some cases, it is necessary to repair or partially redo the clear coat around the fret slots.

Yes. A fretboard with binding requires a more delicate process to preserve or reconstruct the fret ends and the side finish correctly. For this reason, it often has a higher cost than a standard refret.

The time depends on the condition of the neck, the type of fretboard, the presence of binding, and the finish. As a reference, it usually requires several days of work between removal, preparation, installation, leveling, polishing, and final setup.

Yes. It is possible to choose from different profiles, heights, widths, and materials. The choice should take into account the playing style, the fretboard radius, the desired comfort, and the instrument's character.

Fret buzz near the nut is usually due to incorrect string geometry: low nut, too straight or inverted neck, uneven frets, or a setup incompatible with the caliper and tuning. It does not necessarily imply that the entire instrument's action is too low.

Not always. Raising the action can mask the symptom, but it does not correct the cause. If the origin is in the nut, in uneven frets, or in the neck's curvature, you must diagnose and act on that point. Raising the action too much worsens playability without resolving the root problem.

Yes. Too deep or poorly cut slots leave the string excessively close to the first fret. In that case, the fret buzz appears in the air or on the first few frets, although the rest of the fretboard functions properly. The solution may be to correct or replace the nut, not just raise the bridge.

An excessively straight or inverted neck curvature reduces the string space over the first frets and favors fret buzz. The truss rod adjustment must be made by measuring the curvature; a blind turn can improve one area and worsen another.

Yes. A higher fret than the adjacent ones, or partially raised, causes the string to hit when vibrating. The diagnosis is confirmed by measuring and checking the level; sometimes a localized leveling is sufficient, while other times a more extensive work or a refret is required.

A different gauge or a heavier tuning changes the tension and vibration amplitude of the strings. A setup intended for another set may be too short. After changing the gauge or tuning, it is advisable to check the truss rod, nut, action, and, if necessary, the bridge geometry.

A video helps locate the string, frets, and conditions where the noise appears, but it does not replace the inspection. String height above the first fret, fretwell depth, fret leveling, and neck curvature require measurement in the workshop.

When fret buzz occurs even with high action, a note is completely dead, there are visible raised frets, the nut is damaged, the neck is visibly warped or the problem worsens quickly. In those cases, it is not advisable to continue adjusting at home.

According to the cause: instrument diagnosis, full setup, correction or replacement of nut, fret leveling and polishing, truss rod adjustment, or, if wear requires it, refret. A refret should not be assumed without prior measurements.

Keep humidity stable, check the setup after changing caliper or tuning, don't fill the nut with improvised materials and avoid extreme twists of the truss rod without measuring. Replace worn strings before diagnosing abnormal vibrations.

There is no universal calendar. It depends on usage, humidity changes, caliper changes, and whether the instrument has traveled or remained unreviewed for a long time. Many owners in the Madrid area notice seasonal movements in maple necks. If new fret buzz, action variation, or tuning instability appears, it is advisable to have the instrument checked even if a fixed period has not passed. Preventive maintenance makes sense when the instrument is used daily or before recording and performances.

Tuning instability is not usually dependent solely on the bridge. It can also be influenced by friction in the nut slots, string installation, the condition of the springs, the support points of the tremolo, the tuning machines, or an incompatible setup with the gauge used. Before blocking or replacing components, it is advisable to check the entire string path and correctly balance the bridge, tension, and tuning. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

It depends on how much you use the tremolo and what level of stability you expect. A bridge with support usually facilitates tuning if you hardly use the tremolo; a floating bridge allows for up and down adjustment with more margin, but it requires balanced springs and a properly adjusted nut. There is no single answer for all Stratocaster models: the caliper, bridge height, and musical style influence the decision. It is sensible to configure it after inspecting the instrument. In the workshop, we inspect the instrument completely before recommending any intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

Most tolerate standard gauges from .009 or .010 on the first string, but the truss rod, nut, and tremolo must be in range for that tension. Increasing the gauge without checking the nut can increase fret buzz at the nut; lowering too much can cause hum or unstable tremolo. Consult the manufacturer's recommendations for your specific series, but always verify by hand: worn slots or a very flat truss rod limit options. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

Almost always, it is at least necessary to check relief, action, nut, and, if it has a tremolo, spring balance. A string gauge change modifies total tension and can move the neck over time. Sometimes a minor adjustment is sufficient; other times it may be necessary to modify the nut or springs. Changing the strings and assuming that "it will sound the same" often leads to fret buzz or unstable tuning in the first few weeks. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

When there are frets that are higher or lower than their neighbors, resulting in fret buzz in specific positions, dead notes, or buzzing that cannot be fixed simply by adjusting the nut. A level does not replace a refret if the wear is deep, but it can eliminate minor irregularities. It is necessary to measure with a fret ruler or fret measuring tool and compare with the current relief before deciding. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable solution for your Fender.

When fret wear prevents a comfortable setup even though the nut and truss rod are correct, or when there are marked depressions in areas of use. If fret buzz is corrected with a setup, a light leveling is sufficient. Refretting involves cost, time, and possible work on the fretboard finish if it is maple with a finish. We consider remaining height, expectations of touch, and the instrument's value before recommending it. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender.

Yes, but it requires a more careful intervention than a fretboard without a finish. During the extraction and installation of the frets, it may be necessary to protect, repair, or partially redo the clear coat near the fret slots. The procedure will depend on the wear, the type of finish, and the desired aesthetic result. It should be budgeted after physically inspecting the neck. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable solution for your Fender.

Modifying the radius involves shaping the fretboard and has limits based on available thickness and finish. It is not a trivial extra in a standard refret. If you are looking for a different radius, you need to consider whether the neck allows it without compromising stability or aesthetics. In many cases, it is preferable to adjust the action and nut before considering a change in curvature. In the workshop, we review the instrument in its entirety before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

Depending on the model, the original fret size, and the desired touch. Medium nickel is common in standard instruments; jumbo or stainless steel are options when the owner seeks greater durability or a different profile. It is necessary to check the frets' embed, resulting height, and compatibility with the nut. Not all commercial frets fit into every series without adjustments. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender.

A single-coil pickup captures electromagnetic interference; certain hum at high gain can be normal. The abnormal is a crackling when touching metal, cuts when moving the cable, or noise that changes when the selector is operated. We check ground, shielding, output jack, and continuity before blaming the pickups. Distance from interference sources and wiring also influence. In the workshop, we check the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender.

Correct shielding, solid ground connection, and good quality potentiometers reduce part of the unwanted noise. Shielded pickups or noise-cancelling systems change the instrument's character; you have to decide whether you are looking for silence or the original tone. Before replacing pickups, it is advisable to rule out a loose jack, defective cable, or incomplete ground. In the workshop, we review the instrument in its entirety before recommending any intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic setup.

When there are intermittent cuts, noise when turning the volume or tone, or selector positions that don't switch cleanly. Dirty potentiometers sometimes respond to cleaning; others are simply worn out. When replacing, it's advisable to use values appropriate for the circuit and clean solder joints. Noise doesn't always come from the pickups: the control electronics age. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic setup.

Yes, when it's worn, poorly routed, or made of a material too soft for the caliper used. Replacing with bone or high-quality material can improve tuning and sustain if the slotting is correct. It's necessary to respect compatible width, height, and profile for the neck. A rushed change without measuring can worsen fret buzz at the nut. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

Fret buzz on the first few frets, hum in loose strings, or difficulty playing cleanly in low positions without raising the action much on the bridge. It can also appear as a loss of sustain if the strings buzz too early. We measure the nut height and contrast with relief before assuming the problem is in the frets. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

Too high pickups can sound loud but with false notes due to magnetic pull; too low pickups lose output and tone. The balance between three single coils defines part of the character. We adjust height after the mechanical setup, not before. The correct distance depends on the pickup model and string gauge. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic setup.

Often yes: a well-routed nut, properly installed strings, balanced springs, stable tuning machines, and lubricated nut reduce slippage. Locking the tremolo is a shortcut, not the only solution. If the instrument has been modified or the bridge is heavily worn, more intervention may be needed. All of this is confirmed through diagnosis. In the workshop, we review the instrument in its entirety before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic setup.

Gentle cleaning of hand residue, stable humidity, and truss rod adjustment only when the relief requires it. The clear coat on the soundboard should not be treated as a bare wood without finish: use appropriate products. If the clear coat is very worn near the frets, consider cosmetic repair during a more extensive review. Avoid sudden changes in temperature or humidity. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic adjustment.

Wood necks react to the weather. It is common to notice more relief in winter with heating or less action in a humid summer. It does not always imply a failure; sometimes a minor seasonal adjustment is sufficient. If the movements are abrupt or frequent, it is advisable to check the truss rod, frets, and nut together. Storing the instrument away from direct heat sources helps moderate changes. In the workshop, we review the instrument in its entirety before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender.

Setup usually refers to truss rod, nut, bridge, and action without altering the frets. Leveling corrects irregular heights between existing frets by filing just enough to eliminate high points. Refretting replaces worn frets and is a more extensive intervention. Many fret buzzes improve with setup; others require leveling; even fewer need a full refret. Confusing stages can lead to unnecessary repairs. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic setup.

Sometimes, if the mounting measurements and height are compatible with the body and the string angle is correct. A non-original bridge may require routing, different hardware, or tremolo setup. Before buying parts, it is advisable to confirm the year, series, and previous modifications. The goal is to improve functionality, not to force hardware that does not fit the existing routing. In the workshop, we review the instrument completely before recommending an intervention: the year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

If the unwanted noise is bothersome and the circuit lacks effective shielding, this can help. It is necessary to maintain a continuous ground and avoid cold soldering joints. In some series, they come partially shielded already. It does not eliminate entirely the single-coil character, but it can reduce hum. It is considered after ruling out defective jacks, cables, and potentiometers. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender.

Similar to any long-scale bass: regular truss rod check, fret cleaning, jack and potentiometer check, intonation and bridge height check. A string gauge change requires checking the nut. If there is fret buzz in the middle positions with a correct nut, evaluate worn frets. A stable setup avoids forcing the truss rod to compensate for frets. In the workshop, we check the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: year, series and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender.

Check the balance between pickups, the state of the frets in slap areas, the jack, and the ground connection. The truss rod and nut affect the action on low and high strings. Clean the fretboard according to the finish and control the neck's seasonal condition. If there is noise when playing strings in the air, check the ground before changing the pickups. In the workshop, we review the entire instrument before recommending an intervention: the year, series, and previous modifications can change the applicable response for your Fender. Request a in-person review if the symptom persists after a basic setup.

A video guides, but does not replace a hands-on inspection. The camera does not measure relief, fret wear, or nut height with precision. Additionally, the perceived fret buzz depends on pressure when playing, caliper, and actual action. Use videos to describe symptoms; the decision between setup, leveling, or refret requires reviewing the instrument in the workshop. In the workshop, we review the instrument in its entirety before recommending an intervention: year, series, and previous modifications may change the applicable response for your Fender.